Ganling’s Shuhe (Duanda) Patterns

For those who may be confused with the forthcoming tutorial, here is a at-a-glance rundown of the Shuhe 裋褐, commonly (and mistakenly) referred by its thespian jargon, the Duanda 短打. Essentially, it consists of a top (short or long sleeved) that goes down to the thighs or knees, coupled with a sash-tied pair of trousers.

Ganling 甘領, courtesy title (號) Jianlizhai Zhuren 劍礪齋主人 (“Master of the Sword-polishing Study”) has created the following series of tailoring diagrams for us to reference. Note that the design he has presented contains traits unique to Ming-era design (such as the pyramid-shape cutting and lapels that don’t extend fully to the armpit), and there may be discrepancies or variances with others who design Hanfu based on other periods.

Effect:

How the trousers are worn

How an entire set of Shuhe would look together.

3 Comments (+add yours?)

  1. 汉人
    Dec 29, 2013 @ 06:24:05

    So what is the difference between Shuhe and Duanda? Is it okay to have short sleeves? I thought short sleeves were not allowed, especially for women. And for the pants…does it have to be made that way (tied with sashes)? Or is it okay to use an elastic material at the waist? And how about the belt? Is a belt needed or required? I’m a little confused on the general guidelines for Shuhe/Duanda.

    Reply

  2. Kate Kunoichi
    Jun 23, 2015 @ 05:41:37

    Hello Shizuka,
    I’m writing from Australia. I want to make this for myself & my Japanese husband as it’s like Samue (作務衣) only it is more elegant than some Samue patterns in my mind. I have taken our measurements but am unsure about the angles on the parts that form the collar. The neck section on the two pieces that form the front look curved for example, but I have no idea ho curved. Can you please give me some angles or a bit more info on this section so I can make my paper pattern?

    Reply

    • Satsuki Shizuka 五月靜
      Jun 25, 2015 @ 20:49:05

      Hi Kate;

      https://torguqin.wordpress.com/2011/04/11/hanfu-curves/
      The short of it is: it’s a slight curve downwards, within the boundary of the regular triangle of the extended lapel. The flatter/thinner a person is, the larger the curve it can be.

      Just remember the extended lapel is ideally 2~4 inches narrower than the other body panel, and ultimately the angle of the collar depends on where you would like to end it: A few inches under the armpit, or all the way down to the waist? Tough choice, but either variant exists, and that’s where the fun of design freedom kicks in.

      Reply

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