A snippet about Qipao – from 香港三部曲

血色岛屿

二三十年代,十里洋场的上海是全中国的时装中心,名媛、女明星、交际花的穿着打扮领导、制造时装的潮流。我在泛黄的上海报刊读到这么一首歌谣。
  
  人人都学上海样,学来学去难学样,等到学了三分像,上海早已翻花样。

  可见上海的时装晨行夕变,花样变换无穷。旗袍也是上海女人别出心裁,拿了从前满清旗装加以改造,流行到香港,黎美秀很难不受潮流影响。至于黄得云拒绝穿旗袍,则有她历史的因素,而且情有可原。
  当她是摆花街南唐馆艳淫中钗、珠锵玉摇的青楼红妓时,黄得云旗装打份,捏着绣花手绢,高跟旗鞋,摇摇摆摆,以满清公主的扮相现身吸引恩客。从良后,她脱下旗装,一直是上身衫袄,下面一条长裙或裤子。爱美的她,当然也不是没有随着时兴从阔身宽裙到腰身衣袖收窄,领子时高时低,裙脚时短时长,花样层出不穷,而是衫祆绣花、镶滚、钉珠片,甚至后来缀上五彩宝石,随着流行,无奇不有。

From this, one can see clearly that some even in the earlier times (late Qing, early ROC) were clear that the Qipao was Manchu and refused to wear it, as some sort of last defense against (whatever was left of) the Chinese culture.

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